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BJS732240

Rack End

Brand: Mazda
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Vehicle Fitment

Make Model Years Chassis Engine Position
Mazda Atenza
Mazda Atenza GJ - GJ2FP SH-VPTR
Mazda Atenza GJ - GJ5FP PY-VPR
Mazda Atenza GJ - GJEFP PE-VPR
Mazda Atenza Sport Wagon 2002–2026
Mazda Atenza Sport Wagon 2002–2026 GJ - GJ2AW SH-VPTR
Mazda Atenza Sport Wagon 2002–2026 GJ - GJ2FW SH-VPTR
Mazda Atenza Sport Wagon 2002–2026 GJ - GJ5FW PY-VPR
Mazda Atenza Sport Wagon 2002–2026 GJ - GJEFW PE-VPR
Mazda Axela 2003–2019
Mazda Axela 2003–2019 BM - BM2FP SH-VPTR
Mazda Axela 2003–2019 BM - BM2FS SH-VPTR
Mazda Axela 2003–2019 BM - BM5AP P5-VPS
Mazda Axela 2003–2019 BM - BM5AS P5-VPS
Mazda Axela 2003–2019 BM - BM5FS P5-VPS
Mazda Axela 2003–2019 BM - BM6FJ Z6
Mazda Axela 2003–2019 BM - BMEFS PE-VPR
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - AEBA14 HB Z6
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - AEBA14 SDN Z6
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - AEBA14 SDN JMZ EL P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - ALBA15 HB LHD Z6
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - ALBA15 SDN GL PE-VPH
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - ALBA15 SDN GL Z6
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - ALBAM1 SDN 3MZ LATIN Z6
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - ALBAM1 SDN GL PE-VPH
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - BM HB PE-#
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - BM HB JM6 P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - BM HB JM7 GL P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - BM SDN P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - BM SDN PE-VPH
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - BM SDN JM6 Z6
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - BM US SDN 3MZ PE-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BM - JMZBM HB SH-VPTS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - ABBA15 SDN PE
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - ABBA15 SDN PY-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - AEBAM2 3MZ HB PE
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - ALBA 16 SDN LHD Z6
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - ALBA16 SDN JM7 PE
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BM SH
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BM SDN P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BM/BN SDN VTN PE-Y#
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BM# S5
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BN HB AEBA15 P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BN HB AEBAM2 P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BN SDN ALBA16 JM7 P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BN SDN JM6 P5-VPS
Mazda Mazda 3 2003–2026 BN - BN SDN JM6 PE
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - AEGA12 EU LHD SDN PE-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - AEGA12 EU LHD SDN SH-VPTS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - AEGA12 SDN RU PY-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - ALGA12 SDN EL PY-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - ALGA12 SDN GL PY-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - G#2 SDN VTN PE-Y#
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - GJ PY-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - GJ SH-VPTS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - GJ SDN US PY-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - GJ1 RHD PE
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GJ - GJ4 LHD PE
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GL - ALGA13 JM7 LHD PY
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GL - ALGA13 JM7 LHD SH-VPTS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GL - GL PE
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GL - GL SH-VPTS
Mazda Mazda 6 2002–2026 GL - JM6GL103 PY
Mazda Mazda 6 Wagon 2002–2026
Mazda Mazda 6 Wagon 2002–2026 GJ - AEGV10 EU PE-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 Wagon 2002–2026 GJ - GJ PE-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 Wagon 2002–2026 GJ - GJ PY-VPS
Mazda Mazda 6 Wagon 2002–2026 GJ - GJ SH-VPTS
Mazda Mazda 6 Wagon 2002–2026 GL - AEGV11 LHD SH-VPTS

About Rack Ends — function, symptoms & common questions

A rack end — also called the inner tie rod end or inner tie rod socket — is the threaded pivot assembly that screws into or onto the end of a rack-and-pinion steering rack and connects it to the outer tie rod end. It is the innermost joint in a rack-and-pinion steering linkage, directly attached to the moving rack bar, and it transmits the rack's linear motion to the adjustable tie rod assembly that steers each front wheel. Every rack-and-pinion vehicle has two rack ends, one per side.

Also called: inner tie rod end, inner tie rod, rack end socket, inner ball joint. Note: a rack end is NOT the same as a tie rod end (outer tie rod end). The rack end is the inner pivot that threads directly onto the steering rack and is protected inside the steering rack bellows boot; the tie rod end is the outer ball-jointed fitting at the wheel end that connects to the steering knuckle and is exposed to the elements. They are separate parts that fail independently and are replaced separately. In some markets and catalogues the rack end is also listed as just "inner tie rod" — the outer is then "outer tie rod end" — to distinguish the two.

How it works

Linear motion transfer from rack to wheel

The steering rack moves left and right in a straight line inside its housing. The rack end is threaded onto the end of this rack bar, so it moves with the rack. As the rack translates, the rack end pushes or pulls the outer tie rod (and with it the steering knuckle), swinging the front wheel through its steering angle. Without the rack end's articulating joint, the outer tie rod could not accommodate the angular change between the horizontal rack motion and the arc the tie rod follows as the suspension rises and falls.

Ball-and-socket articulation inside the bellows

The rack end contains an internal ball-and-socket joint — similar in principle to the outer tie rod end but larger in section because it is under higher force at this point in the linkage. This joint allows the rod to pivot in multiple planes as the suspension travels, preventing the steering from binding through bumps. The entire rack end assembly lives inside the steering rack bellows boot, which keeps road grit, water and salt away from the joint and the rack surface itself.

Toe adjustment via thread engagement

The outer tie rod end threads onto the rack end's threaded shaft with a jam nut that locks the assembly at the correct length. Turning the outer tie rod end in or out on this thread changes the effective length of the tie rod, adjusting front toe. During a wheel alignment, the technician unlocks this jam nut and turns the outer tie rod end to set toe, then re-tightens the jam nut. The rack end itself is not adjusted during routine alignment work.

Structure and construction

A rack end comprises a machined steel or sintered-iron socket housing threaded externally to engage the rack bar, with an internal spherical bearing that carries the rack end's ball stud. The ball stud's threaded shaft protrudes outward and accepts the outer tie rod end. Housing-to-rack attachment varies by design: staking (the housing is deformed mechanically against the rack after installation), a lock wire, a roll pin, or a separate jam nut — the correct method is vehicle-specific. The socket is sealed by the rack bellows boot, which collapses and extends with every steering input. On replacement, the bellows boot should also be inspected and replaced if cracked or torn. MOOG, TRW, 555 and CTR supply rack ends with forged housings and pre-greased bearing surfaces; MOOG Problem Solver units include an external boot kit.

Common failure symptoms

  • Knocking or clunking over bumps from the steering rack area. A worn ball joint inside the rack end allows the internal stud to knock against the socket walls each time the suspension cycles or the steering is loaded. The noise comes from inside the rack housing area, distinct from the wheel-end clunk of a worn outer tie rod end.
  • Excessive steering wheel play or loose steering. The worn joint absorbs steering input before it reaches the outer tie rod — the driver turns the wheel but the wheels lag behind. This type of play typically feels softer and more gradual than gearbox play because the joint has to travel through its worn range before transmitting force.
  • Vague centre feel and on-centre wander. A rack end that is worn primarily in the straight-ahead position creates a dead zone exactly on centre — the most common position for motorway driving — causing the vehicle to wander without clear steering wheel feedback.
  • Uneven front tire wear. A loose rack end allows the effective toe to shift under cornering and braking loads. The result is feathered or inner-edge tire wear. Because the rack end is inside the bellows and not easily visible, this wear pattern is sometimes the first observable sign of inner tie rod wear.
  • Torn or collapsed bellows boot. If the bellows boot splits, road grit and water enter the rack housing and attack the rack end joint directly. A torn boot is not itself a rack end failure, but it accelerates wear so rapidly that the rack end typically fails within one to two seasons unless the boot is replaced immediately.

Common questions about Rack Ends

What is the difference between a rack end and a tie rod end?

A rack end (inner tie rod end) threads directly onto the steering rack bar and sits inside the steering rack bellows boot. A tie rod end (outer tie rod end) connects the outer end of the tie rod to the steering knuckle at the wheel and is exposed to the environment. They are joined together by the adjustable tie rod sleeve. Both are separate parts, can wear independently, and are stocked and priced separately.

How long do rack ends last?

Typical service life on sealed, well-maintained rack ends is 80,000–160,000 km. A torn bellows boot that allows contamination into the joint can cause failure in under 20,000 km from the time the boot splits. Hard-left or hard-right parking manoeuvres that put the joint at maximum articulation accelerate wear at the extremes of the steering range.

Should I replace both rack ends at the same time?

Generally yes — both sides have the same service history, and if one has reached the end of its life the other is usually close. Replacing both together avoids a second alignment appointment within a short time. However, if only one side shows clear play and the vehicle has modest mileage, replacing the worn side alone is acceptable.

Is wheel alignment required after replacing rack ends?

Yes. The rack end connects to the outer tie rod via a threaded shaft and jam nut — removing the outer tie rod end to replace the inner changes the effective tie rod length and shifts the toe setting. A full front-toe alignment is mandatory after any rack end replacement.

Can I replace the rack end without replacing the entire steering rack?

Yes, in most cases. Rack ends are sold as separate replacement parts and are removed with a specialised inner tie rod removal tool that engages the socket housing inside the bellows. Replacing the rack end and bellows boot restores the joint without replacing the entire rack assembly, which would be substantially more expensive. If the rack bar itself is bent, pitted or has internal seal leaks, a full rack replacement is required.

Do rack ends require any special tools to replace?

Yes. The socket housing is recessed inside the bellows and cannot be reached with a standard open-end spanner. An inner tie rod removal tool (a long-reach crow-foot or a dedicated socket with a slot for the bellows) is required to turn the housing without damaging the rack or the boot. Staked rack ends also require a special re-staking tool or a replacement rack end that uses a different locking method. Home mechanics with the correct tools can perform this repair; without the tool, the risk of rack damage is high.

FAQ

What vehicles use OE BJS732240?

Form-fit-function tested against the OEM specification. Check the vehicle compatibility table above — it lists every confirmed make, model, year, and position. If your vehicle is not listed, contact us before ordering.

How do I order OE BJS732240?

Click Request Quote or email us the OE number with your target quantity and destination. Our team confirms fitment, availability, and lead time within 1 business day. Mix-and-match across part numbers is welcome.

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